Day 15: Ostia Antica, Capitoline Museum and the Heart of Rome Walk
Ostia Antica ~ Rome's Port TownWe headed to Ancient Rome's port town of Ostia Antica and really enjoyed our look at this once-thriving port town of 60,000 people. Ostia is named for the location of it at the mouth (ostium) of the Tiber. It was founded in the 4th century BC and grabbed by Rome as its' first colony. It was originally a provider of salt, then served as a naval base to protect Rome from invasion by River. After Rome secured control of the Mediterranean Sea, Ostia gained in commercial importance. Ostia became vital to the Roman Empire, as most of what Rome consumed came through Ostia. Eventually Rome fell, the river changed course, and the port silted up becoming a malaria filled swamp. Ostia was covered with mud that ended up protecting it until excavation.
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Pro-Tip: We were very happy to see both Herculaneum and Ostia Antica, but if you can't get to Naples Ostia is a really great option instead. It is easy to get to; directions in Rick's book. If you go on a weekend as we did there will be a lot of locals on the train heading to the Lido, or beach, but not many of them will get off with you at Ostia Antica. It is really great for fewer crowds.
Capitoline Museums
Capitoline hills main square houses the museum, but began as the religious center of ancient Rome. It held the temples of the gods Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. In the 16th century Michelangelo transformed it from pagan to papal, and added Renaissance touches.
Trajan's Column and Palazzo Valentini Roman HousesThe world's grandest column from the ancient world is 140 feet tall and decorated with a spiral relief of 2500 figures extoling Trajan's exploits. It unfolds like a scroll and would have been painted in bright colors. Right with the column (entrance on one side at street level) is the Roman House experience which includes a small theatre where you'll be treated to the entire story on the column. You also get a guided visit to a well explained and lighted tour of an elegant ancient Roman house and bath that was really quite fascinating. Lights highlighted each area, be it a floor or wall, that was the remains of what our guide was talking about. You walked on glass walkways built above the ruins and so had great views of them.
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Pro-Tip: I really recommend this experience that isn't on most peoples radars. It was very interesting. Once you know when you want to visit get your ticket online ahead of time, as there is a limited number of slots per tour. While we were waiting to start there were several families that came in and had to be turned away as there wasn't any more room. I just bought ours on my phone a couple days before while we were in Rome, once we knew for sure when we could go.
Ristorante Pizzeria da Francesco
You need to make reservations for this place, which we did for their 7 pm seating time at their outdoor tables. As is obvious from the name, their specialty is pizza. We got prosciutto, four cheese, and black truffle pizzas with some white wine and Tiramisu for dessert. The ambiance outside was wonderful, our waiter was a hoot, and the food was delicious! It was also close to the start of the RS Heart of Rome walk, which we were heading to do after dinner.
Rick's Heart of Rome WalkRome is of course beautiful in the daytime, but I really do have to recommend this walk at night. Everything lit up was stunning! We followed Rick's walk leaving out bits as it suited us, and just seeing the really grand things. We started with Piazza Navona just as the fountains lights were coming on really enjoying the fountains, especially the Four Rivers Fountain, and atmosphere of this beautiful square. Then we headed to the Pantheon, enjoying the sights along the way. At the Pantheon there were street musicians playing, and we enjoyed listening to their music while drinking in the beauty of the Pantheon. Our final main stop was the Trevi Fountain, looking gorgeous after her
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Piazza Navona, Brett & I in front of the Four Rivers Fountain by Bernini.
restoration. We didn't do the Spanish Steps as we had already seen those on other evenings. It was a beautiful evening and wonderful walk after dinner.
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Obelisk of the Four Rivers Fountain & a closer up look at some of the horses and gods depicted, a nice view of the Pantheon's pediment & circular layout, a closer look at the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain & a closer look at one of the horses and gods.